Two islands, just one flight.

Ok, I am a Spaniard and I know that the Canary Islands are a 7 (or 8) island archipelago divided into two regions (western and eastern) and two provinces: Tenerife and Gran Canaria. Without being there, it is hard to guess distances between the islands and logistically plan island-island travel.  I came across one itinerary which included flights between Amsterdam, Fuerteventura and Lanzarote - it was actually a cheaper option than the regular one airport return journey. But, was it doable?

Last year in the Maldives, I was lucky to make a new friend, the Italian surf shaper Wenzel Ceuma, who had been living in Fuerteventura for 15 years. He agreed that a 10-day trip between the two islands sounded like a great plan. There are no issues renting any board size in Fuerteventura, but if you want to bring back something special, do not hesitate to visit his atelier and shop Wenzel Surfboards in the surf town of Lajares, a strategic spot for hitting the road in any direction all along Fuerteventura’s North Shore. Thanks for your advice Wenzel!

Basic logistics

For this combined trip, all you need to do is check car rentals (which are cheap) and ferry timetables (also inexpensive). In the car rentals on Fuerteventura, as everywhere, they do insist on getting full coverage insurance, but also not driving off road and ask that you bring the car back clean. If you continue reading, you will find out why.

For all my trips to the islands so far, I have rented cars from Orlando Car Rental. Their garages are slightly away from the airports, but they kindly pick you up and drop you to their offices. Even though you may have to wait a little bit longer to get your car, this is the perfect option for anyone looking to save some euros here and there.

The sea ferry route between islands is arranged by two different companies: Fred Olsen and Naviera Armas. They offer the same service and prices, picking one is just a matter of your timetable.

Part I. Fuerteventura.

Fuerteventura and Lanzarote are the most western islands in the archipelago. The short distance to continental Africa and Sahara’s sands indicate their landscape terrain. They are both kind of isolated and desert, but If I had to spot the first difference that comes to mind, I would say that Fuerteventura is Mars while Lanzarote is the moon. Both are paradises for trekkers, sport addicts, space photographers and yoga souls.

In Spanish, Fuerteventura sounds like “strong winds”, but once you explore its wonderful inland region and its capital, Betancuria, you discover that its history and name has more to do with a risky business venture. In 1402, French sailors Jean de Bethencourt and Gadifer de la Salle were the first explorers to take on the challenge of the island's complex geography, lack of fresh water and dangerous natives.

Fuerteventura is Mars. Lanzarote, the moon.

The North Shore

Talking about surfing in Fuerteventura is talking about its north shore, named in honor of epic Oahu’s north shore (Hawaii), the most swell-blessed region on earth. From the town of El Cotillo to Corralejo you can drive along 20 km of treacherous rock and sand trails (remember the car rental terms and conditions?) that will guide through a surfari of mythical surf spots. Before going surfing, I suggest a swim in the crystal-clear water natural pools of Playa Los Charcos, a truly incredible experience.

After this, there is a winding road along beaches, cliffs and reefs that takes you to a surfer’s dream. On my first day, there were giant conditions. I saw glassy, hollow overhead and double-overhead monsters in several spots, such as El Hierro, Punta Gorda, The Bubble. But also places with different levels like Majanicho, a sort of double-reef lagoon where surf schools come to teach how to catch both white and green waves.

All over the island, and also in the north, the twisting coast shape has beaches in several orientations, so there is always a perfect spot for any swell direction. Near to Corralejo, you will see a point break wave called Generosa, big but friendly. Once in Corralejo and surroundings you have the urban wave of Bristol, also the easy Bajo del medio. Look out for waves and strong winds in the east side of Corralejo: Harbour Wall, Rocky Point and Flag beach, Playa del Burro (Glass beach), Playa del Moro… With such diverse surf spots, Fuerteventura is the perfect island for both seasoned surfers and beginners. Also, if you want to try another water sport, Fuerteventura offers exciting choices. Because water conditions change, there is always something to do; surfing, windsurfing, kitesurfing or stand-up paddle boarding. The goal over here is getting wet everyday.

Other popular waves in the island

When conditions were not good in the north, locals suggested spots in the south of El Cotillo. The drive to get there took me a few kilometres along a rocky trail parallel to the ocean and a mountain range. The feeling here is similar to surfaris I have made in the north coast of Taghazout (Morocco), but everything in Fuerteventura definitely looks more dramatic. Playa de Esquinzo, a wild beach delivering right and left-handed friendly waves, shows off the islands untamed scenery. Also, on the south east coast, you can head to Playa La Pared, a popular beach frequently visited by local surf schools.

Dedico's Tip: Where to learn surf in Fuerteventura:

• Single surf lessons in the North Shore.
• Six days of surf lessons in the North Shore.
• Combine a surfcamp with Spanish lessons.
• If are a wind addict, just pick our windsurf with yoga course.

Exploring inland

On days out of the water, Fuerteventura offers plenty of attractions. Uncountable hiking trails through the mountainous terrain are a popular choice, or you can drive your car to explore the rich culture, gastronomy and landscapes.

The drive south from Lajares is particularly amazing and lets you experience the special energy of two ancient volcanoes, Montaña Roja (Red Mountain) and Tindaya, sacred spots for the indigenous civilizations. 

See sights in central Fuerteventura

• Learn about the traditional lifestyle of the “majorero” islanders at Ecomuseo La Alcogida.
• Enjoy a dramatic view from Morro Velosa viewpoint (745m) and see the statues of Guise y Oyese, the former kings of rival kingdoms Jandia and Maxorata.
• Visit the white colonial capital of the island, Betancuria (remember the founder Bethancour?)
• Drive the twisting roads along the desert mountain range around Pájara and the wild beaches on the east coast.
• Stop by an ecological cheese farm for buying local goat cheese. Try the best goat stew on earth, a local speciality not far from Morocan Tajines.

Great trekking in Fuerteventura:

If you plan on going hiking, bring a good pair of trekking shoes. The island offers spectacular desert scenery and gorges: 

• Barranco Las Peñitas
• Betancuria - Mirador Mirador Morro Velosa
• Lajares-Mt Bayuyo
• Jandía to Mt Pico de la Zarza

South and east of the island

The island turns even more dramatic once you cross the isthmus onto Peninsula of Jandía. From here, it is easy to drive along the highway to the wonderful beaches of Costa Calma. Although it is a more developed area, you still have plenty of white sand and pristine waters all along the stunning Sotavento Beach. Wind also really picks up in this area and kitesurfing and windsurfing is very popular, with lots of kitesurfing and other water sports schools based here.

In my opinion, the greatest landscape on the island is around the Jandía natural park and Playa de Cofete. Impressive cliffs dramatically edge the coastline, spilling into the ocean like melted lava and remind me of how the Atacama desert rolls into the sea in Northern Chile. The view, beaches and secret surf spots around are just sick. There are even some very secluded beaches where you can sleep in a campervan and have an early surf session alone, barely seeing anyone else. To get an idea of these landscapes, just watch the movie Solo (2018).

Lobos Island

One of my favourite things in this archipelago is that even when you feel you are already on a pretty remote place, there is always an extra surprise for those who want to go beyond; in Fuerteventura this extra is called Isla de Lobos (Wolves island). This is an uninhabited islet (not by fauna) and is great place for exploring crystal clear waters, a wonderful lagoon for snorkeling and diving, bird observation and surfing one of the longest waves in your entire life. Boats depart from Corralejo.

Vibrant and unpolluted energy

Last but not least, both Lanzarote and Fuerteventura deliver special energies. Perhaps due to the strong winds, African sunsets, surreal landscapes and a strong presence of natural elements, these are iconic destinations for those people who want to have a fresh start after an unsatisfying lifestyle, reconnect with nature or just disappear where nobody knows them. Alternative communities, festivals and initiatives are flourishing and special vibes are guaranteed if you book any yoga, meditation or mindfulness retreat in those islands. These islands are inhabited by a few very special people.

Dedico's Tip: Where to practice yoga in Fuerteventura:

• Check out the vibrant energy of the island mixing windsurf and yoga.
• Or just focus in yoga with our teacher Eline.

This is the Part I on an articule about Fuerteventura and Lanzarote. To continue to Lanzarote click here.

Article supervised and edited by Molly Patrick.